Friday, July 24, 2015

Language

Language is a funny thing.  A fun thing.  When two people who both speak the same two languages come into contact, it’s sometimes a process to determine which language should be primarily spoken.  

Take Nepali and English for example.

I am a native English speaker and also speak Nepali.  I have many Nepali friends whose first language is Nepali, but have also learned English.  Usually, in my village I prefer to speak in Nepali even if the person I am speaking to can speak English.  This helps ME learn Nepali and be effective in my work here in Nepal, but perhaps starves them of the opportunity to learn English.  I often have people say “I’ll teach you Nepali and you can teach me English”, but unfortunately that doesn’t hasn’t happened too much.  There are some people who have shown repeated interest in learning English and I try to make time to correct their English and speak with them specifically in English.  One of my closest friends at my site speaks English very well but I had to tell her not to speak it so much with me because my Nepali was suffering.  She is amazingly patient with my broken Nepali and if I’m lucky she will correct me every once in a while.

Usually, each party tries to respect each other by attempting to speak the other person’s native language.  For example, in Katmandu most people assume that if you don’t look Nepali that you are a foreigner and if they know any English they will speak to you in English.  It often comes as a surprise to them if foregners speak Nepali as it is not a common foreign language to learn.  As a volunteer, it’s always an ego booster to come to Katmandu and speak Nepali with people on the street because they are always impressed, happy and there are sometimes rewards.

For example, it helps with barganing.  Street vendors in Nepal will usually categorize you into one of three groups.  They charge each group differently:

Street Vendor Pricing Groups                                                   Street Vendor Thoughts
1. Disabled Nepali-                                    You need my help, here's some fruit

2. Native local Nepali/Friend-                   You're cool (Cheapest Price)

3. Nepali but not local-                              You're still cool, but I don't know you (Getting more pricey)

4. Foreigner who speaks Nepali well and is living in Nepal-     Ooooo.  You're different.  Where are you from and why on earth are you living here?  (Decent price, sometimes equal to a Nepali)

5. Foreigner who attempts to speak Nepali-    Awww.  That's so cute.  (Discount for your baby Nepali language skills

6. Foreigner who makes no attempt to converse, or speak Nepali-    You are wearing tourist clothes so that means you have money.  Cough it up.  (Most Expensive)

After the initial check of who speaks which language best, it can sometimes become a competition of who can speak their non native tongue better.  The winner is sometimes the most stubborn and the competition goes on as long as both people are speaking in their non native tongue.  The looser is the first one to give up and start speaking their native language as it is more comfortable and less challenging for them.  Sometimes people even encourage you to back down and stop trying to speak your non native tongue.  I’ve had people say “don’t worry, just speak in English.”  Or, “really, it would be easier for me if you would just speak in English”.  

The break down is like this:
        
Situation
Person A (Native Nepali Speaker)
Person B (Native English Speaker)
Language Spoken
Professional Environment such as Hospital, Hotel, Spa or Restaurant where English speaker is a guest
Ok English
No Nepali


Ok Nepali




-English is spoken as a form of respect to the client.
-If the English speaker initiates Nepali, Nepali is spoken.

Great English
Ok Nepali
If it is a Nepali man and an English woman, usually English is spoken.  This is out of respect, but as a woman it can feel frustrating because it feels like the man automatically assumes you can’t speak their language, or doesn’t care to see you try.  If it is a Nepali woman speaking to an English woman she will sometimes let the woman speak Nepali and speak back, but she will think it is funny.

No English
Ok or Great Nepali
Fun!  The English person gets to practice their Nepali skills and the Nepali person is facinated by their attempt

To some degree I would imagine this would be the same in all foreign countries.  Usually when someone is not from the land they are visiting, they are given the opportunity to speak the local language to the degree that they make an effort.  

In less formal environments where there is not a customer/client relationship such as in a village there is less expectations of what language is supposed to be spoken.  If one person wants to practice their non native tongue, they usually have to make it known to all who they encounter that they are making the effort to speak the second language and people usually repond by with a subtle smile, and look the other direction, or will engage with you and have fun doing so.  Usually those who engage with you are brave individuals, or well known friends who have made the deision to try to shape the tongue of the silly foreigner who chose to live in their village.

As a woman living in Nepal, I can say that it’s sometimes stressful to be in environments like bus parks where there are many people, usually men, who are asking if you need help/want a taxi/need a hotel/etc.  Any sort of transit like this worldwide I’m sure is just as nerve racking.  I have girlfriends here who only speak English in these situations in order to not attract attention.  As soon as men know that you speak their native language, suddenly the “game” is on and they have fun trying to see how much Nepali you can speak.  Usually they are curious as to what your motive was to learn “their” language.  I’m not sure how it is for men volunteers here.  


Overall, I have enjoyed the process of learning Nepali and then learning a new native tongue at my site.  It’s been keeping my mind active constantly.  However, I’ve always been a bit of a “lazy talker” even in the states and will often use the shortest way possible of explaining something.  That carries into my Nepali language and I’ll usually use the shortest sentances possible to get my point across as long as it’s effective.  Facial cues, energetic output, and body language go a long way in commuinication!  I do my best with my words though and have definitely come out of my shell in regards to seeing the value in just sitting down with friends, sharing tea, and talking.

Saturday, July 11, 2015

On the Earthquake, Being Sent Home, and Returning

Earthquake

Durbar Square, Katmandu...1 week after the quake

When I think back on the moment when everything changed, I’m brought back to my room in Nepal. 

I have been home in the United States one week now and the feeling of being adrift in a sort of alternate reality is starting to fade.  Slowly, my life here now is becoming the reality, and my life in Nepal is becoming more of a memory.  At least now I know I am returning to Nepal.  Knowing that helps me to relax and really enjoy the time I’m given at home.  

When I think back on the moment when everything changed, I’m brought back to my village in Far West Nepal.  I had been at my site for five months and that Saturday morning I was relaxing after bathing and washing my clothes in the river.  As the day approached noon, it started to heat up and I decided to lie in my room for a little bit, read my book, and surrender to the laziness of the warm Saturday afternoon.  As I read my book I noticed a slight rocking movement.  I had recently been thinking about earthquakes because they had mentioned in our first week that Nepal was overdue for a big quake and that we should be prepared should one happen.  There were moments when I would randomly think to myself,

 “What would I do if there was an earthquake right now?  Where would I go?”

But nothing ever happened.  I figured that the movement I was feeling was probably another of my imagined thoughts about earthquakes.  But it didn’t stop.  My second thought was that it was my heart beat subtly moving my body back and forth.  But it didn’t stop.  Luckily for me and the people in the Far West, it never got as big as it did in the eastern part of Nepal.  After looking at some flowers hanging above my bed and seeing them rock every so slightly back and forth I stood up, went outside and asked my Nepali mother 

“I think there was just an earthquake.  Land…moving?  Earthquake?  Earthquake?”

I was saying the Nepali word for earthquake, but my village speaks a mixture of Nepali and Doteli so my mother didn’t know the Nepali word.  She looked at me like I was a little crazy so I figured I was and walked back into my room.

It wasn’t until seeing the facebook posts that people were putting up that I realized it was, in fact an earthquake.  What I didn’t know at the time was how severe the damage was, how internationally known it was, and how my lives in Nepal would be affected even though most people in my village didn’t feel it.  

Peace Corps Washington eventually decided to put us volunteers in Nepal on “administrative hold”.  We were flown to Thailand for a brief transitional conference, then sent home for what ended up being a total of 7 weeks.  I spent one week in Thailand with friends before flying home.



My village grandmother...love her!


The day of the quake my friends and I decided to cook smores
 (Fast forward 1 1/2 months)

My time at home was filled with spending time with friends and family which was a nice silver lining to the tragic events prior.  I arrived home the day before my birthday, and my family gave me a warm welcome that included getting my nails done, going to a movie, and having a pizza dinner.  It was perfect!  Later that week, I got a chance to talk to many of the High School classes where my sister teaches.  It was great to talk about Nepal, show pictures, and expand the minds of the students.  They were very interested in the day to day life in Nepal and I shared all the stories that I thought might interest them including about menstruation rules and using “eastern toilets” with no toilet paper.  Hopefully, I inspired some of them to volunteer as well someday.

A few weeks later, I took a train up to Northern California, visited friends in the bay area and got a chance to see many friends that I have not seen in years.  It was so great to feel that the passing of time had only given us more to talk about, and more adventures to look forward to.  I am so grateful for their hospitality and love.

After coming back to Nepal, I spent one week in Katmandu before heading back to my permanent site.  After the 25 hour flight the jet lag stared to fade to fade.  I woke up every morning to the sound of light rain, the feel of moisture in the warm air, and the sight of low hanging clouds.  

There are 4 different Peace Corps groups represented here now and I got to meet some of the new volunteers that had arrived last March.  They are a tight knit group after being together through the earthquake in Katmandu.  At the time of the earthquake they were all in Katmandu and luckily none of them were injured, at least not physically.  After spending 6 weeks at home, 90% of their group returned to serve in Nepal.  I am inspired by their enthusiasm, resilience and dedication.  

Being back at site is great.  Everyone I met wanted to know:  a) When did I get back? b) Did I make it toAmerica? c) How was my family?  Not being completely fluent in Nepali and Doteli, I’m thankful for moments like these when I can reasonably predict what people are going to ask.  It’s usually a question someone else has recently asked, so I’m prepared to answer.  It was also sweet how many of them asked how my family was.  They really wanted to know who I got to see and how everyone was.  


Rice Seedlings!
My Nepali mom and brother...farming is hard work
I was invited to plant rice with my family a little over a week ago.  It was a great experience that began with morning puja (getting red tikka on my forehead) and lighting incense in the field.  Then me and 8 other women rolled up our pants, took off our shoes and jumped into the thigh deep mud.  For the next 8 hours, with only a 1 hour break for lunch I plopped rice seedlings into the ground alongside my family.  The boys and men ploughed the field, removed large rocks, made berms to hold in the water, then flooded the field with river water.  After it was flooded, the women line up and walk backwards as they plop the seedlings into the mud.  It’s back breaking work and I didn’t think I would be as sore as I was afterwards.  It took about a week to recover.  I’m not sure how my mom does it almost every day for about a month.  Last Saturday I saw her sprawled out on the bench at our house and she told me “Today I’m going to be lazy”.  I smiled and said “I think you deserve it”.